Trimming mechanism for sewing-machines.



No. 628,227. Patented July-4, was. w. A; NEELY.

TRIMIING IECHANISI FOR SEWING IACHINES. (Application fl led. Aug. 15,laa.

-(M Model.) 2 Sheets--Shast l.

\pg I H 1- If 7 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM A. NEELY, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE WVHEELER dcWILSON MANUFACTURING COMPANY, OF BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT.

TRIMMING MECHANISM FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

SIECIFIOATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 628,227, dated J uly 4,1899. Application filed August 15, 1893. Serial No. 688,647. (No model.)

'To aZZ whom it Jnay concern.-

Be it known that I, WILLIAM A. NEELY, of Lynn, county of Essex, State ofMassachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Trimming Mechanism forSewing-Machines, of which the following description, in connection withthe accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters and figureson the drawings representing like parts.

In some classes of Work, notably boot and shoe Work, it frequentlyhappens that a folded edge is to be stitched upon material underlying itand the free edge of the underlying material is to be cut offsubstantially in line with the folded edge. The apparatus 'to be hereindescribed has been especiallyde'vised for doing this class of trimming,and owing to the peculiar construction and location of the parts it ispossible to trim the free edge at a point more or less within the lineof the folded edge, this being especially desirable in connection withshoe-tops.

In this invention the cutter-carrying bar is arranged to slide inguideways in an angular direction transverse to the line of direction ofthe seam being stitched or the feed, such location enabling the blade topass under the folded edge referred to. To cooperate with this foldededge, I have arranged an edge-gage which contacts with the folded edgebetween the cutter-blade and the operator, the cutting edge of the bladereciprocating in a plane outside of the acting face of the said gage, sothat under no circumstances can the cutting edge of the blade meet andmar the folded edge of the material, which is often finished leather.The edge gage is spring-pressed, so that it may bear upon the surfacewhich is to be removed by trimming and may yield to any variation inthickness thereof, and this edge-gage is so pivoted that no amount. ofpressure of the folded edge against it will tend to lift or displace theedge-gage. The bar carrying the cutter-blade has connected to it anoperating-link which is attached to an elbow-lever driven by a rockshaftwhich may be slid longitudinally in a suitable bearing, so that a rolleror other stud carried thereby and entering a hole in said elbow-levermay be moved to enter a groove in a cam on the main rotating shaft ofthe machine to thereby reciprocate the said bar, or by a movement ofsaid rock-shaft longitudinally in the opposite direction, which may bedone at any moment, the said roller or other stud may be removed fromthe influence of said cam, and the cutter-bar and its cutter, as well asthe edge-gage, may be lifted entirely from the Work, leaving the sewingparts to operate without any interfer ence with either of the same. Thisprovision of withdrawing the knife and gage from 0perative positiontemporarily is essential in many classes of work being done.

I believe myself to be the first to employa cutter-bar having a bladeadapted to be reciprocated in an inclined plane transverse to thedirection of feed, and also I believe myself to be the first to socombine with such a cutter-bar and blade an edge-gage which may be putinto its inoperative position when the cutter-bar is thrown out ofaction, and hence this invention is not limited to the exact devicesherein shown and described, butI may .employ instead any other usual orequivalent devices having the same method of operation.

Figure 1, in side elevation, represents a sufficient portion of awell-known sewing-machine with my improvements added to enable myinvention to be understood, the presserfoot being shown in its elevatedposition, but with the blade of the cutter and its edge-gage in theiroperative positions. Fig. 2 is a detail taken from the rear side of Fig.l, chiefly to show the cutter-blade, its carrying-bar and the edge-gage,and means for operating said bar, said figure also showing part of thepresser-foot and with material thereunderin position to be sewed andtrimmed. Fig. 3 is a sectional detail to the left of the line as,Fig. 1. Fig. 4 is a sectional detail showing the elbow-lever and themeans for operating it. Fig. 5 shows the rock-shaft, its arm having astud entering said lever, and a second lever, which is withdrawn fromthe cam.' Fig. 6 shows the lower end of the bar with its attached bladeor cutter and a folded edge lying on, it may be,a shoe-lining which isto be trimmed away simultaneously with the stitching operation. Fig. 7is adctail of the blade. Fig. 8 is a partial plan view of the partsshown in Fig. 6, it alsoshowing the edgegage in position against an edgeof the material, the figure showing the line of stitches and the line inwhich the underlying material or lining is cut. Fig. 9 is a detailshowing part of Fig. 2, but with the blade and gage elevated in theirinoperative position above the work-plate. Fig. 10 is a plan view of thethroat-plate, and Fig. 11 a sectional detail thereof to show theblade-passage.

The bed-plate A, the overhanging arm A, the needlebar A having aneyepointed needle a, the presser-foot A shown as a roller, itbeingcarried by a vertically-movable presser-bar, the take-up A, thetension A the main shaft A in the overhanging arm and deriving itsmotion from the pulley A fast on the said shaft, and the links Aconnected with said shaft and extended downwardly to the double cranksof the lower shaft for actuatingthe stitch-forming mechanism locatedbelow the bed-plate and completnental to the needle-bar and needle, areand may be all substantially as represented in the wellknown Wheeler &Wilson sewing-machine on the market, so that said parts need not beherein further described.

The upper side of the overhanging arm A supports a stand B, whichreceives a hollow rock-shaft B, (see Fig. 5,) having fixed to it atoneend an elbow-lever B a depending arm of said lever having a hole B (seeFig. 5,) while the other or longer arm of said lever receives astud-screw B, which is sn rround ed by the upper end of a link E thelower end of which in turn surrounds a pin or projection [5, extendedfrom a collar B fast on the bar 13 to which is attached the blade orcutter B The hollow rock-shaft 13 receives through it a shaft C, havingat one end an arm or disk C, provided, as herein shown, with a stop-pinC, it serving to limit the sliding motion of the said rod C in thehollow rockshaft B.

The rod C is reduced in diameter near one end and is thereby left with ashoulder C against which bears one end of a spring C so that said springnormally acts to move the said rod in the. direction of the arrowthereon in Fig. 5.

The outer end of the rod 0 has fixed upon it an arm C, having a stud Gwhich enters the hole B in the short arm of the elbow-lever B and saidarm also has at its lower end a roller or other stud G which may enterthe cam-groove in the hub 0 attached to the main shaft A, said stud whenin said groove causing the arm C to be vibrated and through the stud Cin thehole of said elbow-lever vibrating the elbow-lever andreciprocating the blade-carrying bar B to effect the trimming of thework; but whenever it is desired to put the said blade and bar in theirinoperative position the attendant has merely to push the rod 0 in therock-shaft in a direction opposite the arrow thereon, such movementremoving the rolleror other stud C out from the groove of the cam, andimmediately thereafter a spiral or other spring C acts to move the saidarm 0 and elbow-lever to the right into the dotted -line position, Fig.2, leaving the elbow-lever and the bar and blade at rest. To again startthe trimming mechanism into operation, the operator merely presses uponthe projection or handpiece D, extended from the disk or arm C, whichturns the said rock-shaft in opposition to the spring 0 bringing theroller or other stud C in line with the cam-groove before actuating it,when the spring C immediately acts and causes said roller or other studto enter said camgroove.

As herein shown, the under side of the arm A has suitably bolted to it aframe D", it being located at one side of the same and extendeddiagonally toward the line of scam and feed, said frame being providedwith suitable bearings D and D, in which is free to slide the bar Bbefore described.

The bar B has a second collar D provided with an extended pin D whichenters a slot in the upper end of an elbow-lever D fulcrumed loosely ona screw-stud D", said stud being passed through a slot (1 in said lever,a spring (1, connected to the upper end of said lever and to the bearingD, serving to keep the upper end of the slot in said lever upon theupper side of the stud-screw.

The short arm 2 of the elbow-lever D receives the edge-gage 3, it beingheld in adjusted position therein by a set-screw 4, and the spring dkeeps the acting end of said edge-gage normally 'pressed in a yieldingmanner upon the surface of the material which is to be trimmed fromunderneath the folded part. sired that the end of the gage should bearupon the material to be trimmed off then the set-screw 5 (see Fig. 1)may be turned so that its inner end acting against the elbow-lever Dwill limit the descent of the gage under the spring d.

During the reciprocations of the rod B and the trimming of the materialthrough the devices described the stud D slides up and down in the slotof the elbow-lever, but does not turn the said elbow-lever-upon itsfulcrum, the stud-screw D Whenever, however, it is desired to remove theblade of the cutter and the edge-gage from operative position-as, forinstance, while some other part of the work is being stitched which itis not necessary to trim-the operator, as hereinbefore described, throwsthe lever B out of operative position with relation to the cam C, and insuch position the said elbow-lever through the link B pulls the bar Bupwardly diagonally in its bearings D D", and at the same time the studD in a slot of the elbowlever acts upon the end of said slot and raisesthe elbow-lever with its edge-gage, the slot (1 In case, however, it isnot de-' in the lower end of said elbow-lever at such time sliding onthe fulcrum D The slot dis so shaped that the elbow-lever D carrying theedge-gage, may rise to enable the edge-gage to adapt itself to thethickv ness of the material under it without removing the edge-gagelaterally away from the folded edge e of the material lying on the part6 on or above which the edge-gage rests or travels.

The slot 02 is so shaped that when the lever D is in its operativeposition and the acting part of the edge-gage bears against the foldededge of the material being stitched to the material e to be trimmed noamount of pressure of the said folded edge against the edge-gage willmove it laterally away from the line of seam. The curve in the lower endof the slot at as the lever D is fully elevated gives a quick lateralmovement to the lever and to the edge-gage, so that the latter isremoved entirely from the path of the needle-bar as the latter continuesto operate the stitch. It will be noticed that the needle-barreciprocates in a vertical plane and that the bar B carrying the blade Breciprocates in an inclined plane at one side the line of seam and in aplane transverse to the direction of the feed and the direction of theseam being sewed, so that said blade is free to work under the edge e,as represented in Fig. 6, and cut off the lining or other material a towhich the said edge is being stitched, leaving the said out edgesubstantially inside of the line of the edge.

To enable the blade B to be reciprocated in its transverse position, itbecomes necessary to change the slot in the throatplate through whichthe blade reciprocates.

Figs. 10 and 11 show the throat-plate al having the needle-hole d,feed-passage 01 and slot in which moves the spring-controlled slidingblock (i said block closing one side of the slot in which the blade ofthe cutter acts. Herein I have beveled the acting edge of said block atthat side toward the needlehole and have also beveled the under side ofthe throat-plate next the acting end of said block, so that I haveformed a diagonal or inclined passage in which the said blade may work.

The shank of the blade B has a slot 6 which is entered by suitableset-screws a, threaded into an adjustable knife or blade support 6 saidknife-support having at its upper end a block (2, slotted to receive therather small shank of the set-screw e said set-screw attaching the blockand support in an adjustable manner to the lower end of the bar B Theinner side of the block 6 has a groove ables the block and the blade tobe moved with relation to the bar in order that the pointed end e of theblade and its cutting edge just above it may correctly enter the slot inthe throat-plate and not bind therein in any adjustments of thethroat-plate for closer or wider trimming, such adjustments being wellunderstood.

The stud 13", extended from the collar B fast on the bar B is extendedthrough a forked guide f, herein shown as secured to the guide-frame Dby suitable set-screws f, said stud working in said guideway preventingany rocking motion to the bar in its reciprocation and insuring theproper position of the cutting edge of the blade. The guideways soformed receive through them a suitable clamping-screw f the rotation ofwhich enables any wear to be compensated for. The edge e may be a foldededge.

Having fully described myinvention, what I claim, and desire to secureby Letters Patent, is

1. In a sewing-machine, the following instrumentalities, viz:stitch-forming mechanism, a work-support, feeding mechanism to move saidmaterial over said work-support, a reciprocating trimming-blade, meansto support said blade in a diagonal position in a vertical planeat oneside of and transverse to the line of feed and of stitching, and athroatplate having its under side shaped to cooperate with said inclinedblade and form a second member of the trimming mechanism, substantiallyas described.

2. In a trimming mechanism for sewing-machines, an edge-gage standingabove the material to be removed by a trimming-blade, said edge-gageserving to guide the edge of the material from under which projects theedge of other material to be trimmed,a reciprocatingtrimming-blade,means to support said blade in a diagonal position in a vertical planetransverse to the line of feed and of stitching, combined with athr0at-plate beveled at its under side to receive said inclined blade,to operate, substantially as described.

3. In a trimming mechanism for sewing-machines, a reciprocatingtrimming-blade, combined with an edge-gage, a lever carrying saidedge-gage and presenting its acting end above the material to betrimmed, and means to automatically move said lever when the blade isput into its inoperative position to thereby lift the said edge-gage andat the same time move it laterally away from the line of stitching,substantially as described.

4. In a trim min g mechanism for sewing-machines,a reciprocatingtrimming-blade,means to support said blade in a diagonal position in avertical plane at one side of and transverse to the line of feed and ofstitching, combined with a throat-plate beveled at its under side toreceive said inclined blade, to operate substantially as described.

5. In a trimming mechanism for sewing-machines, a bar having an attachedblade, cooperating means against which said blade may act to trim thematerial, a guide for said bar to keep it in a diagonal position at oneside the line of stitching and feed, means to reciprocate said bar insaid guide transversely to the line of stitching and of feed, and anedge-gage, a lever upon which it is mounted, and means between said barand lever to cause said lever and gage to follow said bar into itsinoperative position when it is desired to place the cutter-bar and gageout of action, substantially as described.

6. In a trimming mechanism for se\\'i11gmachines, an edge-gage connectedwith a slotted lever, a fulcrum for said lever, and a spring to keepsaidleverseated on said fulcrum, substantially as described.

7. Inatrimmingmechanismforsewingmachines, an edge-gage secured to anelbow-lever provided with a slot, a fulcrum for said lever, a spring tokeep said lever seated on said fulcrum, the junction of the gage withthe lever being so located that lateral pres sure upon the edge-gage maybe resisted by said fulcrum, substantially as described.

8. In a trimming mechanism forsewing-machines, an edge-gage, anelbow-lever to carry it, said elbow-lever having a camslot at itslowerend, afulcrum for said elbow-lever, said fulcrum being extendedthrough said camslot, means to sustain said fulcrum,and means coactingwith said elbow-lever to adjust the same to regulate the position of theedge-gage with relation to the material underlying it and to be trimmedaway, substantially as described.

9. In a trimming mechanism forsewing-machines, an edge-gage, anelbow-lever having a cam-slot near its lower end, a fulcrum for saidelbow-lever, a spring to retain said elbowlever seated on said fulcrum,said elbow-lever having at its upper end a slot, combined with areciprocating bar carryinga trimmerbar, said bar having a stud enteringthe slot at the upper end of said elbow-lever, whereby when said bar iselevated into itsinoperative position,.said stud, acting in said slot,will elevate the elbow-lever and its attached edgegage causing thecam-slot at its lower end to travel on said fulcrum and move theedgegage laterally at the same time it is elevated, substantially asdescribed. I

10. In a trimming mechanism for sewingmaehines, a bar, a guide to holdsaid barin a diagonal plane at one side of the line of scam anddirection of feed, a support for the blade, said support beingadjustably attached to the lower end of said bar, and a blade adjustablysecured to said support, combined with a throat-plate, an edge-gage, andmeans to reciprocate said bar in a diagonal path transverse to thedirection of feed and of the seam being sewed by the stitch-formingmechanism, substantially as described.

11. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a vertically-reciprocatingneedle, of a trimming-knife which is inclined relatively to the verticalplane and sidewise to the seam, or the direction of the feed of thework, a tliroatplate cooperating with said knife and means forreciprocating the said knife in the direction of its length; whereby theedge of the lower layer of two superposed layers of material being sewedtogether may be trimmed off within the edge of the upper layer.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

WILLIAM A. NEELY.

\Vitnesses:

GEO. W. GREGORY, EMMA J. BENNETT.

